All posts tagged as 4

Made Base Camp 15 minutes ago, and learned that permit is handled in Town. So now I am sitting on the glacier waiting for an air taxi back to Talkeetna.

On my way down with the other climber who was voted off the island. Should be at basecamp in a few hours. It’s a beautiful day to be in the mountains.

Have line on tent but according to park ranger I have the wrong kind of permit. Must go all the way back down to base camp and pay another $300. So down I go

Talked to half a dozen teams on their way down and found all the gear I need to continue with the other group except a tent. Still looking

Found a private group to ascend with! Still need gear as guide will not loan me the gear I drug up the mountain.

I’m looking for a private group I can join to continue up the mountain. Will barter, borrow, ETC for needed gear; tent, stove, etc from descending climbers.

It’s official, I got kicked off the island. Guide doesn’t think I’m strong enough. I think I am but can’t change his mind. The plan is to send me down tomorrow.

He is also sending down another climber with me. I am very frustrated at this point.

Forgot beacon, but just returned from cache. Snowing & much easier today. But guide told me this AM he was considering sending me down based on yesterday.

Prepping to descend to the cache, retrieve and ascend back to 11K. Not looking forward to climbing Ski Hill again in the heat. Snowing since last report, so if the cool temps hold, it should be easy enough.

The Ski Hill climb to 11K in the searing heat really taxed me today. I had to dig deep to get up the hill, looking forward to cooler temps as we get higher.

Here at 11K Camp and marveling at the rapid weather shifts. From scorching to snowing & teens. Never mind, it’s sunny again.

Just made it up to 11K Camp 2 and the last couple of hours had me huffing and puffing. It’s crazy hot, bring on the cold!

Today we will be moving up to Camp 2 at 11,200′ with the rest of gear bypassing the cache at 10,100′. Then the next day we downclimb to retrieve the cache

Back at Camp 1. Today was taxing but tolerable. Very warm now, that will change. 41 deg in my tent. Taking my first sponge bath of the trip. Tired but well.

We are digging the cache now. Will be headed back to Camp 1 soon. Alternated between being overheated and freezing with the dramatic wind variations & bright sun.

Making good time, halfway up Ski Hill. Blue skies, no wind, wispy clouds snow covered peaks. It’s a good day for adventure. Should be an 8 hr day up and down

I had problem w sat uplink that required a factory reset. There were unread messages in the buffer that were lost. Whoever sent them please resend.

Today we start our double carry up Ski Hill. Will carry half our gear up today and cache it there. Come back to Camp 1 and carry the remainder up tomorrow.

Not so serene here. 30 MPH wind, 25 deg temp, 5 deg w chill. Deep powdery snow. Took 3 hours to digout tent platforms, kitchen, latreene and build ice walls.

At the traditional camp 1. Camping here tonight. Cold and very windy here. Will measure later. Digging holes for tents and building ice walls now.