We have finally arrived at 17.2k camp, it was brutally difficult & I was not sure I would make it. We’re making camp now.
We begin 2nd climb up the grueling Headwall. Will grab cache at 16.7 on our way to 17.2k camp. I’m nervous, 1st time was tough 4 me
We are moving up after all. This will be a long hard day of breaking trail up steep slopes.
Snow is pretty deep, not sure if we’ll be moving up today. If we do we are going to have to fight our way though thick fresh powder.
Kept waking, could not get enough air. Realized tent was buried in snow. Cleared snow away from all tents, breathing much better now.
Unfortunately we are getting a lot of snow. Hopefully it will stop soon as deep snow will make tomorrows climb considerably harder.
At 14k I’ve adapted well to alt. Have blisters mild headaches & sore muscles but good appetite & feel strong. 17.2k is harder on body
Tomorrow we move camp to 17.2k so today we prep gear & rest for toughest day yet. Climb is hard but views are spectacular along ridge
The sun doesn’t set here but becomes obscured by the mountains creating the dramatic & photogenic lighting effect “Alpine Glow”.
Have returned from caching supplies on 16.7k ridge above us & returned to 14k to rest. Hardest day yet; steep, heavy pack & thin air
Today’s 16.7k was my personal highest & really taxed me. It’s a bit scary knowing that moving camp to 17k will be harder still.
Now climbing the intimidating Headwall, which looms over 14k camp. It’s so steep it requires fixed lines from 15,500 to 16,100 feet.
In the morning we will ascend the Headwall & go up fixed lines with ascenders, we will then cache and come back down to 14k camp.
Back at 14k & it’s another scorcher. Most of us are walking around camp without shirts. Grilled cheese sandwiches w Salmon for lunch!
Moving out!
Slept well at 14k, highest ever. Feel refreshed & strong. No soreness except calves. -1 degree this AM. Retrieving cache today.
14k is the place to be. After 4 days to acclimatize, we watch for a weather opening to move to 17k and then summit.
Digging out camp at 14k took more out of me than climbing. Maybe I need a sandbox to train with. I’m tired but well. 4 days here min
Made 14. 2 K camp, Work to do now. Hard day.
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