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From cliffs at edge of 17k camp the view is breathtaking. We’re above clouds and can see surrounding mountains & valleys for miles.

Feeling better after big breakfast, sponge bath & much needed change of underwear. Tomorrow we push for the summit weather permitting

We are taking a rest day at 17k. I’m glad of this but it’s risky as today is a perfect summit day & you don’t get many of those here.

Today really wrecked me. Ive never pushed my body so hard for so long. Also having difficulty adapting to the 17k altitude & thin air

We have finally arrived at 17.2k camp, it was brutally difficult & I was not sure I would make it. We’re making camp now.

We begin 2nd climb up the grueling Headwall. Will grab cache at 16.7 on our way to 17.2k camp. I’m nervous, 1st time was tough 4 me

We are moving up after all. This will be a long hard day of breaking trail up steep slopes.

Snow is pretty deep, not sure if we’ll be moving up today. If we do we are going to have to fight our way though thick fresh powder.

Kept waking, could not get enough air. Realized tent was buried in snow. Cleared snow away from all tents, breathing much better now.

Kept waking, could not get enough air. Realized tent was buried in snow. Cleared snow away from all tents, breathing much better now.

Unfortunately we are getting a lot of snow. Hopefully it will stop soon as deep snow will make tomorrows climb considerably harder.

At 14k I’ve adapted well to alt. Have blisters mild headaches & sore muscles but good appetite & feel strong. 17.2k is harder on body

Tomorrow we move camp to 17.2k so today we prep gear & rest for toughest day yet. Climb is hard but views are spectacular along ridge

The sun doesn’t set here but becomes obscured by the mountains creating the dramatic & photogenic lighting effect “Alpine Glow”.

Have returned from caching supplies on 16.7k ridge above us & returned to 14k to rest. Hardest day yet; steep, heavy pack & thin air

Today’s 16.7k was my personal highest & really taxed me. It’s a bit scary knowing that moving camp to 17k will be harder still.

Now climbing the intimidating Headwall, which looms over 14k camp. It’s so steep it requires fixed lines from 15,500 to 16,100 feet.

In the morning we will ascend the Headwall & go up fixed lines with ascenders, we will then cache and come back down to 14k camp.

Back at 14k & it’s another scorcher. Most of us are walking around camp without shirts. Grilled cheese sandwiches w Salmon for lunch!

Moving out!